Citation
Chicago:
Aimee Marcereau DeGalan, “Richard Cosway, Portrait of a Woman, 1787,” catalogue entry in Aimee Marcereau DeGalan, Blythe Sobol, and Maggie Keenan, The Starr Collection of Portrait Miniatures, 1500–1850: The Collections of the Nelson-Atkins Museum of Art, vol. 2, ed. Aimee Marcereau DeGalan (Kansas City, MO: Nelson-Atkins Museum of Art, 2024), https://doi.org/10.37764/8322.5.1324.
MLA:
Marcereau DeGalan, Aimee. “Richard Cosway, Portrait of a Woman, 1787,” catalogue entry. Aimee Marcereau DeGalan, Blythe Sobol, and Maggie Keenan. The Starr Collection of Portrait Miniatures, 1500–1850: The Collections of the Nelson-Atkins Museum of Art, edited by Aimee Marcereau DeGalan, vol. 2, Nelson-Atkins Museum of Art, 2024. doi: 10.37764/8322.5.1324.
Artist's Biography
See the artist’s biography in volume 4.
Catalogue Entry
This portrait of an unidentified woman, painted in 1787, presents her at the height of fashion, wearing what was later known as a “Gainsborough hat,” so-called after the large-brimmed hats worn by fashionable sitters of the English portrait painter Thomas Gainsborough (1727–1788). The sitter’s hat is covered in white ostrich feathers popularized by another member of the ton: From the French phrase, le bon ton, meaning etiquette, good manners, or good form, it also corresponds to high society in England during the late Regency era and the reign of King George IV. See also Regency., Georgiana, Duchess of Devonshire (1757–1806), whose three-foot ostrich-feather headdresses and extravagant towers of powdered hair made her a fashion plate that many women sought to emulate.
Cosway painted this stylish woman a year after his formal appointment to the Prince of Wales, later King George IV (r. 1820–1830), who provided ample commissions until the artist fell from favor in 1811. In 1785, the prince allowed Cosway to sign his work with the extravagant Latin title Primarius pictor serenissimi Walliae principis (Principal painter to his Royal Highness the Prince of Wales), the inscription on the reverse of this miniature.1Stephen Lloyd, “Richard Cosway,” Oxford Dictionary of National Biography, last updated January 3, 2008, https://doi.org/10.1093/ref:odnb/6383. As in many of Cosway’s other portraits, this female sitter wears a diaphanous white muslin dress. It has an elaborate Van Dyck collar: The V-shaped collars seen in many of Sir Anthony Van Dyck’s (Flemish, 1599–1641) portraits. See also Van Dyck dress. that falls against her shoulders and an elevated upright Medici collar: A type of lace-edged collar worn upright behind the head and sloping down to meet a square neckline made popular in the late 1600s and early 1700s by members of the Medici family. that frames her white neck, face, and powdered hair. Cosway owned several prints after works by Sir Anthony Van Dyck (Flemish, 1599–1641), Peter Paul Rubens (Flemish, 1577–1640) and Rembrandt (Dutch, 1606–1669), from which he adopted and adapted their sitter’s fashions in his own works.2For more on Cosway’s collection, see Stephen Lloyd, “The Cosway Inventory of 1820: Listing Unpaid Commissions and the Contents of 20 Stratford Place, Oxford Street, London,” Volume of the Walpole Society 66 (2004): 163–217. This lent a timeless quality to Cosway’s sitters in the ever-fickle and changing face of fashion.
Notes
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Stephen Lloyd, “Richard Cosway,” Oxford Dictionary of National Biography, last updated January 3, 2008, https://doi.org/10.1093/ref:odnb/6383.
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For more on Cosway’s collection, see Stephen Lloyd, “The Cosway Inventory of 1820: Listing Unpaid Commissions and the Contents of 20 Stratford Place, Oxford Street, London,” Volume of the Walpole Society 66 (2004): 163–217.
Provenance
Mr. John W. (1905–2000) and Mrs. Martha Jane (1906–2011) Starr, Kansas City, MO, by 1958;
Their gift to The Nelson-Atkins Museum of Art, Kansas City, MO, 1958.
Exhibitions
The Starr Foundation Collection of Miniatures, The Royal Ontario Museum, Toronto, December 8, 1972–January 14, 1973, no cat., no. 62, as Unknown Lady.
References
Martha Jane and John W. Starr, “Collecting Portrait Miniatures,” Antiques 80, no. 5 (November 1961): 438–39, (repro.), as Unknown Lady.
Ross E. Taggart, The Starr Collection of Miniatures in the William Rockhill Nelson Gallery (Kansas City, MO: Nelson Gallery-Atkins Museum, 1971), no. 62, p. 25, (repro.), as Unknown Lady.
No known related works at this time. If you have additional information on this object, please tell us more.